Working on my son’s stance early. Already getting the hang-five posture down!
The Spirituality Of Surfing: Finding Religion Riding The Waves
The spiritual nature of surfing is something Surfer Magazine editors encounter time and again in letters and stories from aficionados. One editor wrote in an editorial, “Is God A Goofyfoot?”: I could spend literal hours every day reading…
As a priest and surfer, I’ve long seen surfing as an important part of my spiritual formation and discipline.
Why do so many surfing magazines suck? I mean, they in no way reflect what surfers are actually like on an average basis.
Surfing is more than professional tours and scoring points.
I’ve been a surfer for 13 years and I have never really wondered about who won the WCT.
I’ve known a bunch of surfers and their lives don’t consist of dropping everything for a swell in the Indian Ocean. Almost zero surfers have that experience.
Surfing is such a simple thing that we, of course, have to make complicated. Because there’s money in complicated. Simplicity rarely goes to the bank.
I really like simplicity.
Say no to the magazines.
My son was born this week. A native Floridian. I’m, obviously, super excited about this.
I’m excited that my son will experience swamps and the sea. Surfing, snorkeling. He’ll have experience with living dinosaurs and things older than dinosaurs. Ice cold springs. Palm trees. Magical Kingdoms both artificial and made by God Himself.
I wouldn’t want anything less for him.
A native Floridian was born this week. Awesome.
The Ten Distinct States That Make Up Florida
Florida has a reputation as America’s weirdest state, but there’s hardly any national appreciation for the fact that Florida has…
Often, the truth stings a little…
Mid-Century style on Florida's Space Coast
"Once a nexus of launch activity and a parabolic building boom, the Space Coast was arguably a near-perfect time capsule of Mid-Century Modern design. The style of the time was an exuberant explosion of vaulting roof lines, angled plate glass, sine wave arches, boomerangs and atoms."
Florida culture. Disappearing right at a time when the post/meta-modern ideals are primed to recapture this design aesthetic and present it anew.